Located 130 mi/210 km south of Calgary, Waterton Lakes National Park is the lesser-known half of the world's first international peace park—a title that alludes to the fact that Waterton is linked with Glacier National Park in the U.S.: The two parks adjoin one another along the Alberta-Montana border. Together, they make a superb outdoor destination, and one that hasn't become as crowded as other national parks in the region. The land rises from prairie to rugged, beautiful mountain scenery with numerous lakes, valleys and waterfalls.
Waterton's biggest draws are Cameron Lake, where you can rent a canoe or hike part of the way around a glaciated valley, and Red Rock Canyon, where a short interpretive trail leads you past rusting iron deposits that give the gorge its burnished, ruddy color. Don't miss Cameron Falls, a spectacular sight right in the town of Waterton.
Although the park is relatively small, its trail system is extensive—110 mi/185 km of well-maintained trails that lead to alpine lakes, through tunnels and onto lofty summits. One of the most spectacular day hikes in Canada is the Crypt Lake Trail that begins on the eastern side of Upper Waterton Lake. It's not suited for everyone—hikers must climb a ladder at one point and also have to negotiate a natural tunnel by crawling on hands and knees.
The indigenous wildlife includes waterfowl, mule deer, elk, moose, coyotes, bighorn sheep, cougars (abundant but rarely seen), black bears and grizzly bears. In fact, a lot of important research into grizzly bear behavior has taken place in Waterton and in Glacier National Park. Check with park officials on arrival to get the latest word on bear activity and appropriate precautions.
Hiking, camping, interpretive programs, fishing, boat rentals, cycling, horseback riding, a golf course, a spa and scenic driving routes are all available in the park. The lakes are teeming with fish. The Prince of Wales is Waterton's grand old lodge, built in 1927. It's open May-September. The lakeside views from its front lobby and dining room are superb, but its rooms are getting somewhat old and tired. The historic Kilmorey Lodge offers intimate, comfortable rooms decorated to resemble a luxury cottage, and the Bayshore Inn is new and upscale. The Lamp Post Dining Room serves provincial dishes with an extensive Canadian wine list.
Before leaving the area, stop in Cardston, just northeast of the park, to see the Remington Alberta Carriage Centre. Visitors can try their hand at harnessing a horse, take a relaxing carriage tour of the grounds (summer only) or enjoy a complimentary tour from an interpretive guide. Also in town is the Cardston Alberta Temple, an octagonal Mormon church made of locally quarried white granite. Completed in 1923, this was Canada's first Mormon temple.
Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, north of Waterton, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that commemorates a place where buffalo were killed by being driven over cliffs (the smashed-in head in the park's name is attributed to an aboriginal youth who got caught in the stampede). Today, most of the guides are members of the Blackfoot Confederation. For a truly western experience, try camping under the stars in an authentic Blackfoot-style tepee, complete with a woodburning stove. Sleeping bags can be rented on-site.
To the west, at Crowsnest Pass, is the Frank Slide Interpretive Centre. It tells the story of a mining town that was literally wiped off the map in 1903, when 90 million tons of rock slid down Turtle Mountain in less than two minutes. Take the Bellevue Mine Tour in the nearby town of Bellevue to experience the underground world of coal. The tour includes a hard hat with headlamp.
The neighboring town of Pincher Creek is home to the World's Best Beef Festival. You can also tour a working Hutterite colony. Don't miss the Three Rivers Rock and Fossil Museum, which houses an impressive collection of fossils, rocks, sea objects, carvings and jewelry. For kayaking, canoeing, windsurfing or boating, head to the Oldman River Dam Provincial Recreation Area, Beauvais Lake Provincial Park or Beaver Mines Lake.
Far to the east, near the Alberta-Montana border, is Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park, which contains one of the largest concentrations of petroglyphs (rock carvings) and pictographs (rock paintings) in North America. For centuries, Writing-on-Stone was a place of great spiritual importance to generations of Plains groups—artifacts excavated from below the cliffs suggest the area has been inhabited for at least 3,000 years, but the earliest rock art is thought to be the work of the Shoshone, done about 700 years ago. The most famous rock panel, depicting a battle scene, contains more than 250 characters. The park also offers the warm Milk River for swimming, great canoeing and intriguing rock formations. Watch for interesting wildlife, including falcons, partridges, leopard frogs and prairie rattlesnakes.
