This desert covers the vast majority of Egypt—stretching from the Nile to the border with Libya and from the Mediterranean to Sudan—yet it is home to only a tiny fraction of Egypt's population. Great strides have been made in the past few years to accommodate those wanting to visit oases and other sites in the desert. A semicircular route connected to a major highway will take you to Bahriya, Dakhla, Farafra and Kharga.
Bahriya—If your time is short but you want to get a good flavor of what it's like in a desert oasis, this is the one to visit. Even though it's relatively close to Cairo, it will take two days out of your itinerary because you spend about half a day getting there. The oasis can be reached via a crowded, cramped local bus or on a more comfortable tourist bus; contact the tourist board locally for information about either. Bahriya's main city, Bawiti, has modest accommodations. Attractions include hundreds of newly discovered Roman-era mummies, hot and cold natural springs, a date-palm garden and the sleepy atmosphere of a hot desert town. 210 mi/340 km southwest of Cairo.
Dakhla—The Dakhla Oasis, consisting of 16 villages, has been populated for more than 10,000 years. There was a strong Roman presence in the area, and more than a hundred ancient cemeteries have been found in the region. The oasis is known as an agricultural center, but it's also a good place to shop for crafts—baskets, rugs, jewelry and pottery—as well as henna tattoos. The largest city in Dakhla is Mut, which has a number of hotels and a tourist office. The Ethnographic Museum is a good place to see household items used in the oasis during Islamic times. 304 mi/189 km west of Kharga.
Farafra—This small oasis is connected by road to Bahriya and Dakhla. There are no sites to speak of, but it does have some springs and a small guesthouse. Farafra feels like it has not changed over the centuries. 300 mi/485 km southwest of Cairo.
Fayoum—The largest oasis-city by far, Fayoum is also the most accessible. Though it's easy to get to, it really doesn't offer the fascinating atmosphere of the smaller, more remote oases. Fayoum features the Crocodilopolis (560 acres/45 hectares), where the crocodile-headed god Sobek was worshipped. (These ruins won't impress those who have already been to Giza, Luxor, etc.) Nearby are huge, relatively unpolluted freshwater lakes, including Birket Qarun. 65 mi/105 km southwest of Cairo.
Kharga—This oasis can be reached by air from Cairo or by bus from Dakhla and Assiut, a town along the Nile (on the rail line). The older section has narrow, covered lanes that are interesting, but its main attractions are rarely visited temples that are in quite good condition. Two nights could be spent touring the area to see Kasr el-Gwita (Gueweta) Temple and Zayan Temple (only partially excavated), the 12th-dynasty town of Bashandi (with buildings constructed so that the temperature inside is at least 30 degrees F/15 degrees C cooler than outside), Begawat (to see the Christian churches and tombs and the bas-reliefs in the Temple of Hibis) and, surprisingly, a duck farm. Add another day if you want to take a day trip to Dakhla Oasis. 400 mi/645 km south of Cairo.
Siwa—This small oasis near Libya is the most remote in Egypt and can be reached overland by safari from Bahriya or from Marsa Matrouh on the Mediterranean coast. The very private and segregated Berber community that lives there is interesting. The ruined Temple of Amon was home to a famous oracle (Alexander the Great paid a visit). There are also olive and date palms and warm and cool natural springs. Although most accommodations are still rustic, there's also a luxurious ecolodge. 185 mi/300 km south of Marsa Matrouh.
