The Stikine River has drawn anglers, loggers and gold miners to Wrangell for decades. Now this southeast Alaska town attracts tourists, many of whom arrive via cruise ships.
The only Alaska community ruled under three flags by four nations—Russia, Great Britain, the U.S. and the much-feared Stikine Tlingits—Wrangell boasts a 5-mi/8-km waterfront bike path dotted with ancient rock drawings at Petroglyph Beach. Kiksetti Totem Park, Chief Shakes Island and Tribal House, and the Wrangell Museum provide a glimpse into the rich artistic heritage of Alaska Natives.
Wrangell is located near the mouth of the Stikine River, the fastest free-flowing, navigable river in North America, an area that naturalist John Muir praised as a 100-mi/161-km-long Yosemite.
Nearby, accessible by boat or airplane, are the LeConte Glacier, the southernmost tidewater glacier in North America, and the Anan Wildlife Observatory, a traditional Alaska Native hunting and fishing site where brown and black bears go to feed on pink salmon.
In April, as many as 1,600 bald eagles fly in to feast on the annual hooligan run, and 8,000-10,000 snow geese stop by on their annual migration.
Today, Wrangell relies on its salmon-fishing industry and tourism. Since 1952, Wrangell has held a king salmon fishing derby every May and June and draws a crowd of avid fishermen and prize-money seekers (more than US$25,000 is awarded in cash and prizes).
Must See or Do
Sights—Rock carvings at Petroglyph Beach State Historic Park; cultural heritage at Chief Shakes Island and Tribal House; natural wonders at the Stikine River and Anan Wildlife Observatory.
Museums—The Wrangell Museum for the oldest known Tlingit house posts (totems) in southeast Alaska, Alaska Native baskets and artifacts, and more than 5,000 photographs that document Wrangell's eclectic history.
Memorable Meals—Fresh fish and a great view of Zimovia Strait at the Stikine Inn Restaurant; lunchtime seafood at The Diamond C; deli sandwiches at Zak's Cafe or hamburgers at J&W's; warming up with coffee at Jitterbugs Espresso to Go.
Late Night—Music, the Totem can-can troupe and late-night grilled food at The Totem Bar.
Walks—The Mount Dewey Trail, wending up the 400-ft/124-m hill in the downtown area; the waterfall at the end of steep Rainbow Falls Trail.
Especially for Kids—Making rubbings on the replicas of 8,000-year-old rock art on Petroglyph Beach; picking up garnets at Garnet Ledge at the mouth of the Stikine.
History
Wrangell's vibrant history dates back perhaps 8,000 years, when some ancient people carved drawings into the rock along the beach. Their descendants were the powerful Stikine Tlingits, who lived in communities there when the first European settlers arrived in the 1700s. The Russians made their mark in Wrangell next: The Russian-American Company set up a fur-trading operation in 1834. It was leased to the British in 1840. The Brits named Wrangell Fort Stikine. The third flag to fly over the town was Old Glory, which was hoisted after Alaska was sold to the U.S. in 1867.
Stampeders heading for three gold rushes (the Stikine, Cassiar and Klondike) made Wrangell their base of operations from 1860 to 1890. In 1879-80 naturalist John Muir explored the area, was awed by the scenery, and wrote of his experiences in Notes From Alaska.
Several boom-and-bust cycles followed as commercial fishing, canneries (where thousands of Chinese worked) and Alaska's first sawmill (1888) replaced fur trapping. When the local sawmill closed in 1994, the community turned to tourism.
Potpourri
Naturalist John Muir frequently visited Wrangell and used it as a base for his explorations of the Stikine River.
Wyatt Earp served as a deputy marshall in Wrangell for 10 days.
Wrangell survived three gold rushes: 1861, 1872 and 1896.
Sightseeing
There are a number of things to see in Wrangell. The Petroglyph Beach State Historic Park is a must-see, and check out the Wrangell Museum and the Kiksadi Totem Park as well. If you have time, visit the Anan Wildlife Observatory and the Stikine River.
Historic Sites
Wrangell has preserved its small but interesting historic district. A thread of old storefronts built on pilings runs along the eastern side of Front Street.
Kiksadi Totem Park, at the corner of Front and Episcopal streets, is worth a stop. It's on the way to Chief Shakes Island, which is at the end of Shakes Street (the southern extension of Front Street). You'll take a footbridge across the water to see the Chief Shakes Tribal House, a replica of a Tlingit community house. Refurbished as a Civilian Conservation Corps project in 1940, the log house contains some Native American artifacts. There also are several totem poles on the small island and great views of the harbor, which is filled with fishing boats during the summer.
Take time to visit Petroglyph Beach State Historic Park to see ancient art on the rocks. About 1 mi/1.6 km north of the cruise-ship dock (a 15-minute walk), the petroglyphs are thought to be around 8,000 years old and are similar to ones found in Hawaii, Korea, Mexico and France. It's best to go at low tide, when most of the images are revealed. For the best photographs, wet the rocks with seawater.
A boardwalk and accessible information deck overlooking the beach and the Stikine River have replicas of the petroglyphs that you can use to make rubbings. Resist the temptation to make rubbings on the actual petroglyphs because doing so causes damage.
Nature
If you're spending a day or so in Wrangell during late July or August, put the Anan Wildlife Observatory at the top of your list. Located about an hour's jetboat ride (or floatplane flight) from town, this is one of the rare spots where you can watch brown and black bears feed on spawning salmon. The visitors center maintains a list of guides and outfitters that have Forest Service permits to operate on this run.
If time permits, you should also explore the Stikine, the 400-mi-/644-km-long "great river," as named by the Tlingit. The Stikine Delta, home to an impressive list of birds (including 1,600 eagles and 150,000 shorebirds), is just 5 mi/8 km north of Wrangell Island. Operators in Wrangell offer jetboat rides and flights over the area, but you can rent canoes, kayaks and rafts as well.
It's best to go with a guide for your first venture on the river, which is a glacier-fed, many-channeled maze. The river also provides access to Chief Shakes Glacier and the Garnet Ledge at the mouth of the Stikine.
Hiking & Walking
For good views of Wrangell and its surroundings, take the Mount Dewey Trail, which starts at the end of Third Street and leads you to a viewpoint where John Muir once camped.
There are several other hiking trails outside of town, a 5-mi/8-km waterfront, and an extensive network—more than 100 mi/161 km—of Forest Service roads for hikers and bikers.
At the end of a steep, maintained boardwalk through the rain forest is the scenic 100-ft/30-m Rainbow Falls.
Stop by the Forest Service Wrangell Ranger District office at 525 Bennett St. for information on trails and roads open to the public. Phone 907-874-2323.
Spectator Sports
Over Labor Day weekend, the annual Chuck Oliver Golf Tournament takes place at Muskeg Meadows.
Shopping
The shopping opportunities in Wrangell are limited, but you'll find several stores close to the waterfront.
Your first chance to shop is on the dock: Boy Scouts and other local kids harvest garnets from a ledge on the mainland and sell them to tourists. The Wrangell Shady Ladies, a group of women dressed in period costumes, also meet ships.
Angerman's sells T-shirts, clothing, accessories and gift items (phone 907-874-3611). The Norris Gift Shop sells Native American art and other Alaskan souvenirs, including jade and walrus ivory pieces, Native American dolls and baskets, moccasins and toys (phone 907-874-3810). The Alaskan Gift Shop has Alaska-oriented gifts.
At Simply Sterling, look for jewelry fashioned after the ancient rock carvings on Petroglyph Beach. Phone 907-874-4144. http://www.alaskasilver.com.
Local Tours
There are several reputable tour operators in town. The visitors center has lists of tour operators and individuals who offer guided fishing, wildlife and other tours.
Guided tours concentrate on the natural history, botany, birds and other wildlife of the Wrangell area. Among the longtime operators that lead these tours are Alaska Waters (phone 907-874-2378, toll-free 800-347-4462, http://www.alaskawaters.com) and Rain Walker Expeditions (phone 907-874-2549, http://www.rainwalkerexpeditions.com).
You might also check out Breakaway Adventures (toll-free 888-385-2488, http://www.breakawayadventures.com); Stickeen Wilderness Adventures (phone 907-874-2085, toll-free 800-874-2085, http://www.akgetaway.com); and Alaska Vistas (phone 907-874-3006, toll-free 866-874-3006, http://www.alaskavistas.com).
To get to Anan Bear observatory by jetboat, plan for a six-hour trip that costs about US$245 adults. Other popular trips include Chief Shakes Glacier (six hours, about US$179 adults) and the Stikine delta (three hours, about US$82).
Sunrise Aviation conducts 50-minute flight-seeing tours of the LeConte/Stikine wilderness. The company also transports white-water rafters who want to challenge the upper Stikine River to Telegraph Creek in British Columbia for US$575. Phone 907-874-2319. Toll-free 800-874-2311.
The Interisland Ferry Authority (http://www.interislandferry.com) offers ferry trips between Wrangell and South Mitkof Island for US$26 adults one-way, Thursday-Sunday. Viking Travel transfers visitors to Petersburg, a quaint Norwegian-themed fishing village. The ferry also sails to Coffman Cove on Prince of Wales Island for US$49 adults one-way. Taking vehicles on the ferry costs extra. Phone 907-826-4848.
Dining Overview
Fresh local seafood is offered at a number of restaurants in Wrangell, as are basic favorites such as burgers and steaks.
Included in this report is a sampling of restaurants in town. Expect to pay within these general guidelines for a dinner for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$10; $$ = US$10-$25; $$$ = US$26-$40; and $$$$ = more than US$40.
Personal Safety
Crime isn't a significant problem in Wrangell. But use common sense: Be aware of your surroundings and don't leave valuables in sight within a rental car.
Health
Wrangell Medical Center, 310 Bennett, has 24-hour emergency service. Phone 907-874-7000. http://www.wrangellmedicalcenter.com.
Tideline Clinic is in the same building as the medical center. Phone 907-874-4700.
Mosquitoes and other insects can be a nuisance—don't venture out of town without a good insect repellent, preferably one containing deet as an active ingredient.
If you go for a hike, don't drink untreated water from lakes or streams. No matter how pristine the area seems, people and animals may have fouled the waters. And always be aware of the possibility of encountering a bear. If you do, don't approach it and try to avoid quick actions that may alarm it. Inquire locally for details on recent bear activity and more advice on how to behave around the animals. Harrassing or feeding wild animals is illegal and dangerous—just enjoy them from a safe distance.
Disabled Advisory
Wrangell's beachfront is relatively flat, but the community also extends into nearby hills. The Stikine Inn and Harding's Sourdough Lodge provide accessible rooms. Rain Walker Expeditions offers an accessible van with a lift. Phone 907-874-2549.
There are also Senior and Disability Services at 110 Lynch St., Wrangell. Phone 907-874-3375.
Dos & Don'ts
Do stop at Chief Shakes Hot Springs where the water is naturally at 120 F/49 C.
Do buy a garnet from one of Wrangell's children.
Don't buy Alaska Native art without a "Silver Hand" emblem guaranteeing authenticity.
Do drive to Nemo Point, about 12 mi/19 km out of town, for the best views of surrounding islands.
Do search for whales, fish and human faces in the petroglyphs located on the northern end of Wrangell Island.
Don't touch, walk upon, paint, rub or trace the petroglyphs.
Do look for wildlife at dawn and dusk when they are most active.
Don't feed wildlife.
Don't run from a bear. If it approaches you, stand your ground and slowly wave your arms over your head. If a bear attacks you, keep your pack on and either lay flat on your stomach or curl into a ball and protect your face and neck.
Do taste Wrangell shrimp, which are known to practically melt in your mouth.
Hotel Overview
Wrangell has a couple of hotels as well as lodges, cabins, bed-and-breakfasts and a hostel, most located downtown and near the harbor. Reservations are recommended, especially June-August and in May for the fish derby. For a unique getaway, rent a houseboat with a fully equipped galley, hot showers and a glass-enclosed atrium.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Population: 2,308.
Time Zone: 9 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-9 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the second Sunday in March to the first Sunday in November
.
Voltage Requirements: 110 volts.
Telephone Codes: 907, area code for all of Alaska;
Currency Exchange
Wrangell's two banks are within walking distance of the harbor: First Bank (phone 907-874-3363) and National Bank of Alaska (phone 907-874-3341). Both have ATMs.
Taxes
Wrangell has a 7% sales tax and a 6% bed tax.
Tipping
In restaurants, 15% is the norm unless good service warrants more.
Weather
Wrangell's maritime climate features cool summers and mild winters. Average daily temperature range in July is 50-65 F/10-18 C and 25-35 F/-4 to 2 C in January. Wrangell has an average annual precipitation of 85 in/216 cm, so take your raincoats. Most people visit in summer or during the fishing derby in May. The wettest month is October.
What to Wear
Layering is the key to comfort in southeast Alaska. Start with a short- or long-sleeve shirt and long pants; add a fleece vest, sweater, hooded sweatshirt or light jacket; and finish with comfortable waterproof boots or shoes and rain gear for misty, drizzly days. You won't need heavy down coats, but you should take shorts just in case the sun shines. Attire is casual.
Telephone
There are public telephones all around town.
Internet Access
Wi-Fi access is available at the Irene Ingle Public Library on Second Avenue across from the post office. Open daily except Sunday. Phone 907-874-3535.
Mail & Package Services
The post office is open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-5 pm, Saturday 11 am-1 pm. 112 Federal Way (by the cruise-ship dock). Phone 907-874-3714.
Newspapers & Magazines
Pick up a copy of
Wrangell Travel and Business Planner and the
Wrangell Guide from the Wrangell Convention and Visitor Bureau. Toll-free 800-367-9745. http://www.wrangell.com.
The Wrangell Sentinel is the oldest continuously published newspaper in Alaska. It is published weekly on Thursday. Phone 907-874-2301.
Transportation
You can easily see the city sights on foot. But if you have time to see more of the island, Practical Rent-A-Car at the airport provides rental cars starting at US$47 or US$55 per day for a minivan (phone 907-874-3975). It also rents bicycles.
Northern Lights Taxi (phone 907-874-4646) will also get you from place to place rather cheaply. Cabdrivers make good tour guides, too. An hour-long tour around town will cost you about US$60.
If you're flying into town, the airport (WRG) is approximately 1 mi/1.6 km east of town.
Calendar
Hearty travelers who visit Wrangell in spring or winter can look forward to some city revelry.
In February, the Tent City Festival commemorates the gold-rush days in Wrangell and on the Stikine River with a theatrical performance, fancy ball, food, crafts, contests and a closest-to-the-pin golf tournament at Muskeg Meadows.
In mid-April, the Garnet Festival celebrates the migration of bald eagles, 150,000 shorebirds and 120 other species of birds, as well as the arrival of sea lions. You can listen to bands and attend the street fair and arts events. The King Salmon Fishing Derby, held mid-May to mid-June, attracts anglers who compete for prizes.
The three-day Fourth of July celebration includes a parade, fireworks, carnival and logging show. Golf tournaments take place throughout the summer, May-September.
And to kick off the holiday season in early December, the Festival of Lights and tree-lighting ceremony include lighting displays as well as a shopping festival and art shows.
