Except for its old city wall, some 8 mi/12 km around, Xi'an (pronounced
SHE-on) looks like any other large industrial city. However, it holds several important treasures: Foremost is the Qin Army Vault Museum, home to the army of 2,200-year-old terra-cotta soldiers unearthed 25 mi/40 km east of town. More than 8,000 life-size ceramic soldiers, chariots and horses have been uncovered—only a fraction of the total buried there to protect the tomb of the first Qin emperor. Each soldier is based on an actual person of the time, and all segments of Chinese society are represented. The statues remain where they were uncovered, protected by a large (3.7-acre/1.5-hectare) hangar-like hall. Individual soldiers can be studied more closely in a museum exhibit in an adjacent building. Outside the exhibit, locals have set up a flea market. Much of what's displayed is junk, but some of the embroidered clothing is beautiful and reasonably priced.
Tours to see the terra-cotta troops often include stops at the tumulus (ancient grave mound) of the first emperor. There's not much to see there—basically, you walk to the top of a small hill. The unexcavated tomb lies below and is thought to contain fantastic riches. (Among the treasures rumored to be buried there are gold ducks floating on a river of mercury beneath a sky laden with pearl stars.)
Another stop that may be included on a tour of terra-cotta warriors is the Huaqing Hot Springs (where a Tang emperor used to cavort with his concubine). The adjacent park invites a pleasant stroll, and its Catching Chiang Pavilion marks the spot where Chiang Kai-shek was kidnapped. But the most interesting side trip is to the Banpo Museum (6 mi/10 km from town), built around the actual site of a 6,000-year-old neolithic village. In addition to the village itself, items unearthed at the dig are displayed (there are signs in English).
In Xi'an itself, look for the Great Mosque (behind a long wall in a residential area). Used by Xi'an's large Islamic population, its buildings look mostly Asian but with obvious Arabic influence. (Male travelers shouldn't miss the mahogany throne in the toilets.) The mosque is a peaceful refuge in an otherwise busy, noisy city. Also visit the Shaanxi Provincial History Museum (artifacts, relics and murals from the Tang and Qing Dynasties) and the Big Wild Goose Pagoda. (Built in AD 625, it is one of China's most famous pagodas—it has a great view from the top.) You can venture into a surrealistic underground amusement center in the park near the Big Wild Goose Pagoda: A tunnel decked in Christmas-type lights leads to a series of rooms. It's a bizarre place—one room has fascinating, jury-rigged electronic games, another features a "zoo" (containing only a monkey, a salamander and a turtle) and a third has a small hall where well-dressed couples dance the tango.
Finally, take some time to stroll around the night markets, where you can sample and take in the sights, sounds and tastes of the city's prevalent Muslim Hui minority. Absolutely fascinating. 550 mi/885 km southwest of Beijing.
