China has built the world's largest dam on the world's third-longest river, a project that has begun to raise the waters of the Yangtze along the scenic Three Gorges area. The waters are expected to rise gradually until 2009, when most of the marvelous old temples, landmarks and towns along the river will be underwater.
Major cruise companies now offer cruises from Chongqing to
Yichang or from Chongqing to
Wuhan, and longer cruises operate between Chongqing and Shanghai. Most people take the boat downstream from Chongqing to Wuhan (about 900 mi/1,300 km), which takes about three days. The upstream trip is two days longer, and you may be the only tourist on board. The Three Gorges (Qutang, Wu and Xiling), the highlight of the trip, lie between Chongqing and
Yueyang. With cliffs rising thousands of feet/meters above the river, Wu (20 mi/32 km long) is the most impressive. The cruises usually include an excursion up one of the streams feeding into the Yangtze as well—we like the trip up the Shennonjia Stream near
Badong, where trackers pull the boats upstream with shoulder harnesses and let the vessels float silently back down through narrow gorges.
You can travel by cruise ship or public passenger ferry. The cruise ships are at the top end of the luxury scale—some have swimming pools and beauty salons, all have English-speaking guides. It's best to arrange these trips from your home country, although you can book them at many travel offices in China. The tourist ships stop in towns of interest to tourists, whereas passenger ferries don't stay long enough for sightseeing.
The passenger ferries are less comfortable—and some are not running at all. Until the permanent locks are in place, some companies are sending passengers to their destination by bus or train rather than by ship. If you do make it on board a ship, try to get a second-class ticket (the best offered) to reserve a two-berth cabin and—most important—to ensure a seat in the second-class lounge, which has the best views.
