Yosemite is still one of the most sublime and beautiful places in the U.S. Those who have seen the park's natural wonders captured in the photographs of Ansel Adams—the soaring heights of Half Dome, the rugged outcroppings of El Capitan—will find that these structures are every bit as massive and awe-inspiring when viewed with the naked eye.
Yosemite's beauty does come at a price: crowds, especially in summer. Whether inching along the park's overtaxed vehicle lanes or trudging up over-peopled trails, you'll see the difficulty of getting away from it all in such a place as Yosemite. (Park officials are considering closing the park to car and RV traffic and simply busing people in, but in the meantime, the cars keep chugging through, and services are strained by it all.) A good start to addressing this problem is the free shuttle-bus service throughout the eastern portion of Yosemite Valley, which is available year-round.
A wilderness experience in Yosemite requires work and planning these days. Getting one of the first-come, first-served campsites in the park is next to impossible, but reservations for camping and lodging in the Yosemite Valley's Curry Village can be (and should be) made several months in advance. If you're not camping, the most popular places to stay in Yosemite Valley are the historic 1927 Ahwahnee Hotel (a six-story study in luxury built of native stone—the immense, vaulted dining room could accommodate King Kong) and the popular Yosemite Lodge (which has motel-style units). Near the park's southernmost entrance, set amid lush meadows in summer, is the Ahwahnee's kissing cousin, the somewhat rustic but classy woodframe Wawona Hotel, where some rooms still feature brass doorknobs, push-button lightswitches, steam radiators and clawfoot bathtubs.
To reserve hotel, lodge or cabin space in the park, call the Yosemite Reservation Service (phone 559-252-4848) or go to the Web site of Yosemite Concession Services (http://www.yosemitepark.com).
Outside the park, there are a variety of accommodations within an hour's drive. One of the largest and closest is Marriott's Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite, a luxurious resort complex 2 mi/3 km from the southern entrance to the park. Just a little farther on is the Jeffery Hotel in Coulterville, which started as a Mexican dance hall during the gold-rush days.
To avoid the worst of the commotion, move up and out of the valley. Getting away from the busy roads is also a good idea: This 1,190-sq-mi/3,080-sq-km park is best seen by doing a lot of walking and hiking. Look for the familiar formations of Half Dome and Cathedral Spires. El Capitan is the largest pure-granite outcropping in the world and has absolutely sheer walls. Other points of interest include Yosemite Falls, Glacier Point, Waterwheel Falls and the Tioga Pass. (The waterfalls are most impressive in the spring.) If the Yosemite crowds get to be too much, it's always possible to retreat to Bass Lake or intriguing Gold Country towns just west, including Oakhurst and Mariposa.
Another awe-inspiring sight are the sequoias growing in Yosemite's Mammoth Grove. The largest tree measures more than 25 ft/8 m in diameter and is at least 2,500 years old. Recreational possibilities include bicycling, horseback riding, swimming, snow skiing and other winter sports.
Despite the crowds, you're still likely to spot deer in the park, and sightings of (smarter than average) black bears are also possible, though less likely.
Note: Bears that do make their presence known are often after food. Therefore do not, under any circumstances, leave food—or even food containers—in your car at any time. Some Yosemite bears have been known to tear off entire door panels just to get at the goodies, posing a danger to cars, people and, ultimately, to the bears themselves: These bears must often be destroyed. Needless to say, park rangers are adamant that visitors refrain from feeding the bears or any other wild animals. Encouraging dependence on human handouts is not an act of kindness.
But before leaving Yosemite, make a stop at the Ansel Adams Gallery, a gallery and gift shop offering photographic workshops and exhibiting some of Adams' wonderful black-and-white photos of the park—these intricately detailed photos helped bring Yosemite to the world's attention. Yosemite is 180 mi/290 km east of San Francisco.
