Founded in 1546, this silver-mining town was a major city of Spain's New World empire, and today it's a jewel in the crown of Mexico's colonial cities. You can explore many of the buildings with delightful colonial architecture on your own. The pink-
cantera (stone) cathedral, with its intricate carved-stone facade and striking interior, is an outstanding example of Churrigueresque architecture.
Zacatecas' several museums include the exceptional Pedro Coronel Museum, which includes works by Chagall, Picasso, Goya and Daumier, as well as exhibits of Chinese, Indian, Japanese and—surprisingly—Tibetan art. Another museum showcases the town's native-son artist, Francisco Goitea. A collection donated by Rafael Coronel (Pedro's brother) displays 3,700 hand-carved masks, mostly from Mexico.
After a day of museums, drop by the Hotel Quinta Real, even if you're not staying there. It was built around the beautifully paved (now restored) Plaza de Toros San Pedro, among the oldest bullfight arenas in the Americas. The central market has been restored to a pristine state and contains upscale boutiques (some sell beautiful silver jewelry). You can also take a cable-car ride across the city; it ends at La Bufa, a peak outside of town that has a nice view. (Avoid the cable cars if there's high wind, however.)
El Eden is a former silver mine that has been renovated and opened to visitors; you descend into the mine via elevator and take tours on an open flatbed coal car (not for the claustrophobic). At night, the former mine transforms into a disco. The nearby Convento de Guadalupe has religious paintings. 190 mi/320 km northeast of Guadalajara.
